For removing the oil pan, turn on the parking brake and apply the wheel chocks on the rear wheels and then lift the front end of the car and put it on sturdy jackstands. For models from 2001 and later, there is a splash shield below the oil filter; remove the required bolts to release it. Dispose with the engine oil and also remove the oil dipstick, if any from the engine. On most models, there is a need to remove the exhaust system section beneath the engine; For 2001+ models, in a similar manner to the above explanation, unscrew the flange bolts and nuts of the catalyst to exhaust pipe, in addition to exhaust pipe bracket bolt. For the models from 1996 to 2000, unbolt the flywheel/driveplate access cover and the engine block-to-transaxle reinforcement bracket. Subsequently, the oil pan bolts should be unscrewed and the oil pan should be unbolted, the putty knife or a screwdriver might be necessary to ease the process since you should not harm the contact surfaces. For installating, remove the old sealant from the block and also from the oil pan, and also clean the joint surfaces and also the threaded bolt holes. Check the oil pan flange for bending and the OPR oil pump pick-up tube assembly for cracks or blockages, replace pick-up tube assembly with new O-ring or gasket if has been removed. Run a 3/16-inch bead of RTV sealant on the oil pan flange, set the oil pan in place and screw the bolts by hand while loosely tightening them. Torque all the bolts from the center towards the periphery for the next stage, the flywheel/ driveplate access cover and also the engine block to transaxle reinforcement bracket with the bolts being tightly fixed in place. The other steps of installation are the reversal of the removal process and one hour is given for the curing of the sealant before the addition of oil. Last but not least, start the engine and observe and look at the dials for oil pressure and ensure there are no signs of oil leaks.