Initial action for 2001 through 2006 models is to open the bleeder screw and allow clutch fluid to run out, and to be careful so as to avoid spilling it since it affects painted parts and is caught in a container or rags. That is followed by unmasking the clutch pushrod from the pedal with the help of a cotter pin, washer, and clevis pin the clutch tubing is disconnected from the master cylinder. Take out the master cylinder mounting bolts and pull it up and away, accompanied by holding the hose nut that comes with a wrench while tightening the flare nut on the tube with a flare nut wrench if needed. Installation on the other hand is done in a sequence that is opposite that of removal and should be bled after. If the master cylinder is bad on the 2007 and newer cars the clutch pedal/ master cylinder assembly has to be replaced as a unit. For servicing the release cylinder in the 2001 through 2006 models, securely jack up the vehicle on jackstands, and then remove the clutch fluid hose from the release cylinder and siphon the contents into a vessel. Pull out the cotter pin in the clevis pin at the extremity of the shaft and take off the clevis pin next to it; unbolt the mounting bolts and take off the release cylinder. As for removal, installation is the complete opposite with due reckoning given to the fact that the copper washers used in the hose banjo fitting will have to be changed, and then the system, will need to be bled. A
Release Bearing assembly for the hydraulic master cilinder includes a concentric release cylinder From model year 2007 on, it is fixed in the transaxle section; the transaxle has to be removed to gain access to this cylinder so the system has to be bled.