Before electrical diagnosis is made, it is recommended that one checks
Fuses. First, remove the electrical connector on the horn side of the circuit. To check horn, short the terminal of the horn with a jumper wire; if horn does not work, then you need to replace it. If the horn does ring, measure for voltage at terminal if the horn button is pressed on. If there's voltage at the terminal, usually there is bad ground at the horn. If voltage is not available at the horn, then the
Relay has to be checked. If the relay is working, follow the voltage check on the relay power and control circuits, if no voltage is present in either the circuits, then, examine the wiring in between the relay and the fuse panel. If both the relay circuits are getting supply voltage, push the horn button and check the path from the relay to the horn button for connection to the ground. If there is no continuity check the circuit for open; if the circuit is not open replace the horn button. If continuity exists to ground through the horn button, to is analyze for open or short in the circuit between the relay and the horn. For models from 2010 and earlier, there are two horns: One of them is inserted near the left head light assembly while the other is installed in the center of the car, before the condenser. Considering the models that were manufactured from 2011 onwards, the cars come equipped with lone horn that is located at the center of the car, right in front of the condenser. To replace either of the horns you just have to undo the bolts with the bumper cover or the grille, pull the electrical connector off and then you have to take the bracket bolt off. It is the process of undoing with how it was done; removal is the process of doing installation.