Prior to removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump drive chain, oil pump, and baffle must be taken off. Use your fingernail to check for any ridge at the upper limit of ring travel, approximately 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder. If ridges are present due to carbon deposits or cylinder wear, they must be completely removed with a special tool, following the manufacturer's instructions, as failure to do so may result in piston breakage. After removing the ridges, turn the engine upside-down with the 
Crankshaft facing up. Before removing the connecting rods, check the endplay with feeler gauges by sliding them between the first connecting rod and the crankshaft throw until the play is eliminated; the endplay should not exceed the service limit, or new connecting rods may be necessary. Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks, and if they are not marked, use a small center-punch to create indentations. For specific engine models, it may be necessary to remove the ladder frame or lower crankcase to access all connecting rod bolts. Loosen each connecting rod cap nut gradually until they can be removed by hand, then take off the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert without dropping the insert. To protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall during piston removal, slip a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt. Remove the bearing insert and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine, using a wooden or plastic hammer handle to apply pressure on the upper bearing surface. If resistance is encountered, ensure all ridge material has been removed from the cylinder. Repeat this process for the remaining cylinders. After removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective rods and install the cap nuts finger tight to prevent accidental damage to the bearing surfaces. Do not separate the pistons from the connecting rods.